Nonlinear generation and loss of infragravity wave energy

Abstract

Nonlinear energy transfers with sea and swell (frequencies 0.05–0.40 Hz) were responsible for much of the generation and loss of infragravity wave energy (frequencies 0.005–0.050 Hz) observed under moderate- and low-energy conditions on a natural beach. Cases with energetic shear waves were excluded, and mean currents, a likely shear wave energy source, were neglected. Within 150 m of the shore, estimated nonlinear energy transfers to (or from) the infragravity band roughly balanced the divergence (or convergence) of the infragravity energy flux, consistent with a conservative energy equation. Addition of significant dissipation (requiring a bottom drag coefficient exceeding about 10−2) degraded the energy balance.