Beach studies in the Cape Cod area : conducted during the period August 1953-April 1960

Abstract

Six years of field data plus the conclusions of eight published papers, plus two papers 11 in press", are included in this final report. Wherever possible the writer has attempted to sum up significant unpublished data by the use of illustrations, for example (Plates I through XII and Plates XIII to XVI). All other research, whether fruitful or not is summed up as concisely as possible. The format is outlined in the Contents. It may best be considered in three parts, an Introduction, description of the area and a discussion of technique, for one part. A second part wherein Beach and Coastal Regimen is the topic, this includes profile studies, aerial photography and coastal erosion studies; sediment distribution and wave dynamics is part 3. The studies have led to problems which are unsolved and in a sense the data bearing on these problems is more or less "hanging in air". For example, the most interesting conclusion we derived from the sediment sampling along offshore profiles was that deposition of sediment is confined to a thin strip of sand next to the coast and a mud zone far offshore. These sites of deposition are separated by a zone of erosion or non-deposition. We have carried these ideas rather far and have published a model to explain the mechanics of transport (Miller and Zeigler, in press). Yet, the field sampling is inadequate in spite of supplementary efforts made on two cruises, not a part of this contract, to get enough field data. Consequently, a formal discussion of this problem is in the future and surely that discussion will draw heavily on data which is now inadequate. A second example of a problem in progress, but unsolved concerns inlets. The data is included in this report, but it leads to no conclusions. In keeping with instructions for report requirements for Geography Branch contracts, conclusions of published reports are listed, details are not reported.