Kukulka Tobias

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Start date: 2008 × Subject: Wave breaking ×

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The effect of breaking waves on a coupled model of wind and ocean surface waves. Part II : growing seas

2008-10 , Kukulka, Tobias , Hara, Tetsu

This is the second part of a two-part investigation of a coupled wind and wave model that includes the enhanced form drag of breaking waves. The model is based on the wave energy balance and the conservation of air-side momentum and energy. In Part I, coupled nonlinear advance–delay differential equations were derived, which govern the wave height spectrum, the distribution of breaking waves, and vertical air side profiles of the turbulent stress and wind speed. Numeric solutions were determined for mature seas. Here, numeric solutions for a wide range of wind and wave conditions are obtained, including young, strongly forced wind waves. Furthermore, the “spatial sheltering effect” is introduced so that smaller waves in airflow separation regions of breaking longer waves cannot be forced by the wind. The solutions strongly depend on the wave height curvature spectrum at high wavenumbers (the “threshold saturation level”). As the threshold saturation level is reduced, the effect of breaking waves becomes stronger. For young strongly forced waves (laboratory conditions), breaking waves close to the spectral peak dominate the wind input and previous solutions of a model with only input to breaking waves are recovered. Model results of the normalized roughness length are generally consistent with previous laboratory and field measurements. For field conditions, the wind stress depends sensitively on the wave height spectrum. The spatial sheltering may modify the number of breaking shorter waves, in particular, for younger seas.

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The effect of breaking waves on a coupled model of wind and ocean surface waves. Part I : mature seas

2008-10 , Kukulka, Tobias , Hara, Tetsu

This is the first of a two-part investigation of a coupled wind and wave model that includes the enhanced form drag of breaking waves. In Part I here the model is developed and applied to mature seas. Part II explores the solutions in a wide range of wind and wave conditions, including growing seas. Breaking and nonbreaking waves induce air-side fluxes of momentum and energy above the air–sea interface. By balancing air-side momentum and energy and by conserving wave energy, coupled nonlinear advance–delay differential equations are derived, which govern simultaneously the wave and wind field. The system of equations is closed by introducing a relation between the wave height spectrum and wave dissipation due to breaking. The wave dissipation is proportional to nonlinear wave interactions, if the wave curvature spectrum is below the “threshold saturation level.” Above this threshold the wave dissipation rapidly increases so that the wave height spectrum is limited. The coupled model is applied to mature wind-driven seas for which the wind forcing only occurs in the equilibrium range away from the spectral peak. Modeled wave height curvature spectra as functions of wavenumber k are consistent with observations and transition from k1/2 at low wavenumbers to k0 at high wavenumbers. Breaking waves affect only weakly the wave height spectrum. Furthermore, the wind input to waves is dominated by nonbreaking waves closer to the spectral peak. Shorter breaking waves, however, can support a significant fraction, which increases with wind speed, of the total air–sea momentum flux.

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