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    Physical linkages between an offshore canyon and surf zone morphologic change

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    Hansen_et_al-2017-Journal_of_Geophysical_Research__Oceans.pdf (7.309Mb)
    Date
    2017-04-29
    Author
    Hansen, Jeff E.  Concept link
    Raubenheimer, Britt  Concept link
    Elgar, Steve  Concept link
    List, Jeffrey H.  Concept link
    Lippmann, Thomas C.  Concept link
    Metadata
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    Citable URI
    https://hdl.handle.net/1912/9065
    As published
    https://doi.org/10.1002/2016JC012319
    DOI
    10.1002/2016JC012319
    Keyword
     Surf zone morphologic change; Surf zone currents 
    Abstract
    The causes of surf zone morphologic changes observed along a sandy beach onshore of a submarine canyon were investigated using field observations and a numerical model (Delft3D/SWAN). Numerically simulated morphologic changes using four different sediment transport formulae reproduce the temporal and spatial patterns of net cross-shore integrated (between 0 and 6.5 m water depths) accretion and erosion observed in a ∼300 m alongshore region, a few hundred meters from the canyon head. The observations and simulations indicate that the accretion or erosion results from converging or diverging alongshore currents driven primarily by breaking waves and alongshore pressure gradients. The location of convergence or divergence depends on the direction of the offshore waves that refract over the canyon, suggesting that bathymetric features on the inner shelf can have first-order effects on short-term nearshore morphologic change.
    Description
    Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2017. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 122 (2017): 3451–3460, doi:10.1002/2016JC012319.
    Collections
    • Sediment Transport
    • Applied Ocean Physics and Engineering (AOP&E)
    Suggested Citation
    Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 122 (2017): 3451–3460
     

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