Physical linkages between an offshore canyon and surf zone morphologic change
Date
2017-04-29Author
Hansen, Jeff E.
Concept link
Raubenheimer, Britt
Concept link
Elgar, Steve
Concept link
List, Jeffrey H.
Concept link
Lippmann, Thomas C.
Concept link
Metadata
Show full item recordCitable URI
https://hdl.handle.net/1912/9065As published
https://doi.org/10.1002/2016JC012319DOI
10.1002/2016JC012319Abstract
The causes of surf zone morphologic changes observed along a sandy beach onshore of a submarine canyon were investigated using field observations and a numerical model (Delft3D/SWAN). Numerically simulated morphologic changes using four different sediment transport formulae reproduce the temporal and spatial patterns of net cross-shore integrated (between 0 and 6.5 m water depths) accretion and erosion observed in a ∼300 m alongshore region, a few hundred meters from the canyon head. The observations and simulations indicate that the accretion or erosion results from converging or diverging alongshore currents driven primarily by breaking waves and alongshore pressure gradients. The location of convergence or divergence depends on the direction of the offshore waves that refract over the canyon, suggesting that bathymetric features on the inner shelf can have first-order effects on short-term nearshore morphologic change.
Description
Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2017. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 122 (2017): 3451–3460, doi:10.1002/2016JC012319.
Suggested Citation
Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 122 (2017): 3451–3460Related items
Showing items related by title, author, creator and subject.
-
Improving understanding of near-term barrier island evolution through multi-decadal assessment of morphologic change
Lentz, Erika E.; Hapke, Cheryl J.; Stockdon, Hilary F.; Hehre, Rachel E. (Elsevier B.V., 2013-02-27)Observed morphodynamic changes over multiple decades were coupled with storm-driven run-up characteristics at Fire Island, New York, to explore the influence of wave processes relative to the impacts of other coastal change ... -
Inner-shelf ocean dynamics and seafloor morphologic changes during Hurricane Sandy
Warner, John C.; Schwab, William C.; List, Jeffrey H.; Safak, Ilgar; Liste, Maria; Baldwin, Wayne E. (Elsevier, 2017-02-17)Hurricane Sandy was one of the most destructive hurricanes in US history, making landfall on the New Jersey coast on October 30, 2012. Storm impacts included several barrier island breaches, massive coastal erosion, and ... -
Changes in midgut gland morphology and digestive enzyme activities associated with development in early stages of the American lobster Homarus americanus
Biesiot, Patricia Marie (Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 1986-05)The development of the digestive system, specifically in relation to the midgut gland (hepatopancreas). in early life history stages of the American lobster Homarus americanus is examined in the present study by means ...