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    Decoupling processes and scales of shoreline morphodynamics

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    1-s2.0-S0025322716301578-main.pdf (1.909Mb)
    Date
    2016-08-24
    Author
    Hapke, Cheryl J.  Concept link
    Plant, Nathaniel G.  Concept link
    Henderson, Rachel E.  Concept link
    Schwab, William C.  Concept link
    Nelson, Timothy R.  Concept link
    Metadata
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    Citable URI
    https://hdl.handle.net/1912/8538
    As published
    https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2016.08.008
    DOI
    10.1016/j.margeo.2016.08.008
    Keyword
     Shoreline change; Coastal evolution; Storm response; Empirical orthogonal function; Fire Island 
    Abstract
    Behavior of coastal systems on time scales ranging from single storm events to years and decades is controlled by both small-scale sediment transport processes and large-scale geologic, oceanographic, and morphologic processes. Improved understanding of coastal behavior at multiple time scales is required for refining models that predict potential erosion hazards and for coastal management planning and decision-making. Here we investigate the primary controls on shoreline response along a geologically-variable barrier island on time scales resolving extreme storms and decadal variations over a period of nearly one century. An empirical orthogonal function analysis is applied to a time series of shoreline positions at Fire Island, NY to identify patterns of shoreline variance along the length of the island. We establish that there are separable patterns of shoreline behavior that represent response to oceanographic forcing as well as patterns that are not explained by this forcing. The dominant shoreline behavior occurs over large length scales in the form of alternating episodes of shoreline retreat and advance, presumably in response to storms cycles. Two secondary responses include long-term response that is correlated to known geologic variations of the island and the other reflects geomorphic patterns with medium length scale. Our study also includes the response to Hurricane Sandy and a period of post-storm recovery. It was expected that the impacts from Hurricane Sandy would disrupt long-term trends and spatial patterns. We found that the response to Sandy at Fire Island is not notable or distinguishable from several other large storms of the prior decade.
    Description
    This paper is not subject to U.S. copyright. The definitive version was published in Marine Geology 381 (2016): 42–53, doi:10.1016/j.margeo.2016.08.008.
    Collections
    • Coastal and Shelf Geology
    Suggested Citation
    Marine Geology 381 (2016): 42–53
     

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