The distribution of wave heights and periods for seas with unimodal and bimodal power density spectra
Sharpe, Matthew M.
MetadataShow full item record
Observed distributions of wave heights and periods taken from one year of surface wave monitoring near Martha's Vineyard are compared to distributions based on narrow-band theory. The joint distributions of wave heights and periods and the marginal height distributions are examined. The observed significant wave heights and the heights and periods of the extreme waves are also studied. Seas are classified by the shapes of their power density spectra. Spectra with a single peak are designated as unimodal and spectra with two peaks as bimodal. Seas are further classified by spectral width, a function of the three lowest spectral moments. The joint distributions of wave heights and periods from seas with narrow spectral widths take the general shape predicted by narrow-band theory and the statistics of extreme waves for these seas are well described. As spectral width increases, agreement between the theoretical and observed distributions diminishes and the significant wave heights and statistics of extreme waves show increasing variability. Bimodal seas with wide-banded spectra are found to have larger significant and extreme wave heights and shorter extreme wave periods than unimodal seas of the same width.
Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Ocean Engineer at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 1990
Showing items related by title, author, creator and subject.
Waldbauer, Jacob R. (Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 2010-02)Biological activity has shaped the surface of the earth in numerous ways, but life’s most pervasive and persistent global impact has been the secular oxidation of the surface environment. Through primary production – the ...
Temporal variability and vertical structure in larval abundance : the potential roles of biological and physical processes Garland, Elizabeth D. (Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 2000-02)Recruitment variability in benthic invertebrate populations results from variability in planktonic larval supply and from processes occurring during and after larval settlement onto the seafloor. The focus of this thesis ...
Physiological and behavioral diagnostics of nitrogen limitation for the toxic dinoflagellate Alexandrium fundyense Poulton, Nicole J. (Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 2000-09)One challenge in phytoplankton ecology is to measure species-specific physiological responses to changes in environmental conditions. Of particular importance in this regard are harmful algal bloom (RAB) species such as ...