The distribution of wave heights and periods for seas with unimodal and bimodal power density spectra
Citable URI
https://hdl.handle.net/1912/5425DOI
10.1575/1912/5425Keyword
Wave mechanicsAbstract
Observed distributions of wave heights and periods taken from one year of surface
wave monitoring near Martha's Vineyard are compared to distributions based on narrow-band
theory. The joint distributions of wave heights and periods and the marginal height
distributions are examined. The observed significant wave heights and the heights and
periods of the extreme waves are also studied.
Seas are classified by the shapes of their power density spectra. Spectra with a single
peak are designated as unimodal and spectra with two peaks as bimodal. Seas are further
classified by spectral width, a function of the three lowest spectral moments.
The joint distributions of wave heights and periods from seas with narrow spectral
widths take the general shape predicted by narrow-band theory and the statistics of
extreme waves for these seas are well described. As spectral width increases, agreement
between the theoretical and observed distributions diminishes and the significant wave
heights and statistics of extreme waves show increasing variability. Bimodal seas with
wide-banded spectra are found to have larger significant and extreme wave heights and
shorter extreme wave periods than unimodal seas of the same width.
Description
Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Ocean Engineer at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 1990
Suggested Citation
Thesis: Sharpe, Matthew M., "The distribution of wave heights and periods for seas with unimodal and bimodal power density spectra", 1990-09, DOI:10.1575/1912/5425, https://hdl.handle.net/1912/5425Related items
Showing items related by title, author, creator and subject.
-
Internal hydraulic jumps with upstream shear
Ogden, Kelly A. (Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 2017-02)Internal hydraulic jumps in flows with upstream shear are investigated numerically and theoretically. The role of upstream shear has not previously been thoroughly investigated, although it is important in many oceanographic ... -
Insight into chemical, biological, and physical processes in coastal waters from dissolved oxygen and inert gas tracers
Manning, Cara C. (Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 2017-02)In this thesis, I use coastal measurements of dissolved O2 and inert gases to provide insight into the chemical, biological, and physical processes that impact the oceanic cycles of carbon and dissolved gases. Dissolved ... -
Coral biomineralization, climate proxies and the sensitivity of coral reefs to CO2-driven climate change
DeCarlo, Thomas M. (Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 2017-02)Scleractinian corals extract calcium (Ca2+) and carbonate (CO2−3) ions from seawater to construct their calcium carbonate (CaCO3) skeletons. Key to the coral biomineralization process is the active elevation of the CO2−3 ...