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dc.contributor.authorHenderson, Stephen M.  Concept link
dc.contributor.authorGuza, R. T.  Concept link
dc.contributor.authorElgar, Steve  Concept link
dc.contributor.authorHerbers, T. H. C.  Concept link
dc.date.accessioned2010-12-14T14:30:50Z
dc.date.available2010-12-14T14:30:50Z
dc.date.issued2006-04
dc.identifier.citationJournal of Physical Oceanography 36 (2006): 629-635en_US
dc.identifier.urihttps://hdl.handle.net/1912/4220
dc.descriptionAuthor Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2006. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 36 (2006): 629-635, doi:10.1175/JPO2890.1.en_US
dc.description.abstractPrevious field observations indicate that the directional spread of swell-frequency (nominally 0.1 Hz) surface gravity waves increases during shoreward propagation across the surf zone. This directional broadening contrasts with the narrowing observed seaward of the surf zone and predicted by Snell’s law for bathymetric refraction. Field-observed broadening was predicted by a new model for refraction of swell by lower-frequency (nominally 0.01 Hz) current and elevation fluctuations. The observations and the model suggest that refraction by the cross-shore currents of energetic shear waves contributed substantially to the observed broadening.en_US
dc.description.sponsorshipFunding was provided by the Office of Naval Research, the National Science Foundation, and the National Ocean Partnership Program.en_US
dc.format.mimetypeapplication/pdf
dc.language.isoen_USen_US
dc.publisherAmerican Meteorological Societyen_US
dc.relation.urihttps://doi.org/10.1175/JPO2890.1
dc.titleRefraction of surface gravity waves by shear wavesen_US
dc.typeArticleen_US
dc.identifier.doi10.1175/JPO2890.1


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