Field observations of swash zone infragravity motions and beach cusp evolution
Bryan, K. R.
MetadataShow full item record
Fluid flows consistent with low-mode edge waves were evident in video observations of swash motions during a field experiment in which beach cusps developed on an initially smooth beach. As beach cusps grew, energy lying along low-mode dispersion curves increased. The most energetic edge-wave propagation direction changed from upcoast to downcoast as the orientation of the cusp horns rotated. These observations suggest a coupling between morphodynamics and hydrodynamics, and are evidence that beach cusp evolution might control low-mode edge wave dynamics.
Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2005. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research 110 (2005): C02018, doi:10.1029/2004JC002485.
Showing items related by title, author, creator and subject.
Beach changes and management options for Nauset Barrier Beach and Orleans Town Beach, Cape Cod, MA : report to the Town of Orleans Aubrey, David G.; Robertson, William (Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 1998-04)The present study investigated the shoreline and dune changes occurrng along Nauset Barrier Beach system during the past sixty years, based on examination of aerial photographs, charts, and other data sources. Significant ...
Newton, Ryan J.; Huse, Susan M.; Morrison, Hilary G.; Peake, Colin S.; Sogin, Mitchell L.; McLellan, Sandra L. (Public Library of Science, 2013-09-10)Microorganisms associated with coastal sands serve as a natural biofilter, providing essential nutrient recycling in nearshore environments and acting to maintain coastal ecosystem health. Anthropogenic stressors often ...
Aubrey, David G.; Gaines, Arthur G. (Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 1982-01)Popponesset Spit, the barrier beach sheltering Popponesset Bay on Cape Cod, Massachusetts, has experienced large changes in its location and shape over the past thirty years. Concern by the public over loss of this ...