On the estimation of the directional spectrum of ocean waves from time series observations of surface elevations
Stevens, Raymond G.
MetadataShow full item record
KeywordOcean waves--Mathematical models
A mathematical model, consistent with certain physical features of ocean waves may be constructed by superposition of long crested sinusoidal gravity waves. Such a model, as proposed by Pierson (1955) and Longuet-Higgins (1957), depends upon the random superposition of the component waves, so that the interpretation of ocean wave measurements must be regarded as a statistical problem. Barber (1958) has suggested that measurement of sea surface elevation as a function of time at several points along a line array may be used to deduce the distribution of energy with regard to frequency and direction of the component gravity waves. In fact, by preserving the time relationship among the signals from several detectors in a line array , the array need not be physically rotated to examine component gravity waves coming from various directions. After developing the physical basis and mathematical notation for a stochastic model of ocean waves the limitations and potential errors in the measurement and calculation of directional spectra from finite and discrete data are discussed. Finally, some directional spectra calculated from measurements of wind generated waves in Buzzards Bay, Massachusetts are presented without attempting interpretation.
Suggested CitationStevens, R. G. (1963). On the estimation of the directional spectrum of ocean waves from time series observations of surface elevations. Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution. https://doi.org/10.1575/1912/25209
Showing items related by title, author, creator and subject.
Understanding the ocean carbon and sulfur cycles in the context of a variable ocean : a study of anthropogenic carbon storage and dimethylsulfide production in the Atlantic Ocean Levine, Naomi M. (Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 2010-02)Anthropogenic activity is rapidly changing the global climate through the emission of carbon dioxide. Ocean carbon and sulfur cycles have the potential to impact global climate directly and through feedback loops. Numerical ...
Air-sea CO2 fluxes and the controls on ocean surface pCO2 seasonal variability in the coastal and open-ocean southwestern Atlantic Ocean : a modeling study Arruda, R.; Calil, Paulo H. R.; Bianchi, A. A.; Doney, Scott C.; Gruber, Nicolas; Lima, Ivan D.; Turi, G. (Copernicus Publications on behalf of the European Geosciences Union, 2015-10-12)We use an eddy-resolving, regional ocean biogeochemical model to investigate the main variables and processes responsible for the climatological spatio-temporal variability of pCO2 and the air-sea CO2 fluxes in the ...