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dc.contributor.authorApotsos, Alex  Concept link
dc.contributor.authorRaubenheimer, Britt  Concept link
dc.contributor.authorElgar, Steve  Concept link
dc.contributor.authorGuza, R. T.  Concept link
dc.contributor.authorSmith, Jerry A.  Concept link
dc.date.accessioned2007-03-09T19:54:07Z
dc.date.available2007-03-09T19:54:07Z
dc.date.issued2007-02-03
dc.identifier.citationJournal of Geophysical Research 112 (2007): C02003
dc.identifier.urihttps://hdl.handle.net/1912/1517
dc.descriptionAuthor Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2007. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research 112 (2007): C02003, doi:10.1029/2006JC003549.en
dc.description.abstractSetup, the increase in the mean water level associated with breaking waves, observed between the shoreline and about 6-m water depth on an ocean beach is predicted well by a model that includes the effects of wave rollers and the bottom stress owing to the mean flow. Over the 90-day observational period, the measured and modeled setup are correlated (squared correlation above 0.59), and agree within about 30%. Although rollers may affect setup significantly on beaches with large amplitude (several meters high) sandbars and may be important in predicting the details of the cross-shore profile of setup, for the data discussed here, rollers have only a small effect on the amount of setup. Conversely, bottom stress (calculated using eddy viscosity and undertow formulations based on the surface dissipation, and assuming that the eddy viscosity is uniform throughout the water column) significantly affects setup predictions. Neglecting bottom stress results in underprediction of the observed setup in all water depths, with maximum underprediction near the shoreline where the observed setup is largest.en
dc.description.sponsorshipFunding was provided by the Office of Naval Research, the National Science Foundation, and the Army Research Office.en
dc.format.mimetypeapplication/pdf
dc.language.isoen_USen
dc.publisherAmerican Geophysical Union
dc.relation.urihttps://doi.org/10.1029/2006JC003549
dc.subjectSetupen
dc.subjectRollersen
dc.subjectBottom stressen
dc.titleEffects of wave rollers and bottom stress on wave setupen
dc.typeArticleen
dc.identifier.doi10.1029/2006JC003549


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