Effects of wave rollers and bottom stress on wave setup
Guza, R. T.
Smith, Jerry A.
MetadataShow full item record
Setup, the increase in the mean water level associated with breaking waves, observed between the shoreline and about 6-m water depth on an ocean beach is predicted well by a model that includes the effects of wave rollers and the bottom stress owing to the mean flow. Over the 90-day observational period, the measured and modeled setup are correlated (squared correlation above 0.59), and agree within about 30%. Although rollers may affect setup significantly on beaches with large amplitude (several meters high) sandbars and may be important in predicting the details of the cross-shore profile of setup, for the data discussed here, rollers have only a small effect on the amount of setup. Conversely, bottom stress (calculated using eddy viscosity and undertow formulations based on the surface dissipation, and assuming that the eddy viscosity is uniform throughout the water column) significantly affects setup predictions. Neglecting bottom stress results in underprediction of the observed setup in all water depths, with maximum underprediction near the shoreline where the observed setup is largest.
Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2007. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research 112 (2007): C02003, doi:10.1029/2006JC003549.
Suggested CitationArticle: Apotsos, Alex, Raubenheimer, Britt, Elgar, Steve, Guza, R. T., Smith, Jerry A., "Effects of wave rollers and bottom stress on wave setup", Journal of Geophysical Research 112 (2007): C02003, DOI:10.1029/2006JC003549, https://hdl.handle.net/1912/1517
Showing items related by title, author, creator and subject.
Characterizing wave- and current- induced bottom shear stress : U.S. middle Atlantic continental shelf Dalyander, P. Soupy; Butman, Bradford; Sherwood, Christopher R.; Signell, Richard P.; Wilkin, John L. (Elsevier B.V., 2012-11-05)Waves and currents create bottom shear stress, a force at the seabed that influences sediment texture distribution, micro-topography, habitat, and anthropogenic use. This paper presents a methodology for assessing the ...
Fredericks, Janet J.; Trowbridge, John H.; Williams, Albert J.; Voulgaris, George; Shaw, William J. (Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 2001-08)To quantify and understand the role of vertical mixing processes in determining mid-shelf vertical structure of hydrographic and optical properties and particulate matter, the Office of Naval Research (ONR) funded a program ...
Gross, Thomas F.; Williams, Albert J. (Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 1993-11)Two Benthic Acoustic Stress Sensor (BASS) equipped tripods were deployed in the Sediment Transport Events on Shelves and Slopes (STRESS) experiment in November, 1988, and recovered in March, 1989, on the California Shelf. ...