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    Effects of wave rollers and bottom stress on wave setup

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    2006JC003549.pdf (2.389Mb)
    Date
    2007-02-03
    Author
    Apotsos, Alex  Concept link
    Raubenheimer, Britt  Concept link
    Elgar, Steve  Concept link
    Guza, R. T.  Concept link
    Smith, Jerry A.  Concept link
    Metadata
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    Citable URI
    https://hdl.handle.net/1912/1517
    As published
    https://doi.org/10.1029/2006JC003549
    DOI
    10.1029/2006JC003549
    Keyword
     Setup; Rollers; Bottom stress 
    Abstract
    Setup, the increase in the mean water level associated with breaking waves, observed between the shoreline and about 6-m water depth on an ocean beach is predicted well by a model that includes the effects of wave rollers and the bottom stress owing to the mean flow. Over the 90-day observational period, the measured and modeled setup are correlated (squared correlation above 0.59), and agree within about 30%. Although rollers may affect setup significantly on beaches with large amplitude (several meters high) sandbars and may be important in predicting the details of the cross-shore profile of setup, for the data discussed here, rollers have only a small effect on the amount of setup. Conversely, bottom stress (calculated using eddy viscosity and undertow formulations based on the surface dissipation, and assuming that the eddy viscosity is uniform throughout the water column) significantly affects setup predictions. Neglecting bottom stress results in underprediction of the observed setup in all water depths, with maximum underprediction near the shoreline where the observed setup is largest.
    Description
    Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2007. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research 112 (2007): C02003, doi:10.1029/2006JC003549.
    Collections
    • Applied Ocean Physics and Engineering (AOP&E)
    Suggested Citation
    Journal of Geophysical Research 112 (2007): C02003
     

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