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  • Infragravity waves over topography : generation, dissipation, and reflection 

    Thomson, James M. (Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 2006-09)
    Ocean surface infragravity waves (periods from 20 to 200 s) observed along the southern California coast are shown to be sensitive to the bottom topography of the shelf region, where propagation is linear, and of the ...