Now showing items 1-4 of 4

    • Reflection and tunneling of ocean waves observed at a submarine canyon 

      Thomson, James M.; Elgar, Steve; Herbers, T. H. C. (American Geophysical Union, 2005-04-07)
      Ocean surface gravity waves with periods between 20 and 200 s were observed to reflect from a steep-walled submarine canyon. Observations of pressure and velocity on each side of the canyon were decomposed into incident waves ...
    • Refraction and reflection of infragravity waves near submarine canyons 

      Thomson, James M.; Elgar, Steve; Herbers, T. H. C.; Raubenheimer, Britt; Guza, R. T. (American Geophysical Union, 2007-10-10)
      The propagation of infragravity waves (ocean surface waves with periods from 20 to 200 s) over complex inner shelf (water depths from about 3 to 50 m) bathymetry is investigated with field observations from the southern ...
    • Resonances in an evolving hole in the swash zone 

      Elgar, Steve; Raubenheimer, Britt; Thomson, James M.; Moulton, Melissa (2011-08-06)
      Water oscillations observed in a 10-m diameter, 2-m deep hole excavated on the foreshore just above the low-tide line on an ocean beach are consistent with theory. When swashes first filled the initially circular hole on ...
    • Tidal modulation of infragravity waves via nonlinear energy losses in the surfzone 

      Thomson, James M.; Elgar, Steve; Raubenheimer, Britt; Herbers, T. H. C.; Guza, R. T. (American Geophysical Union, 2006-03-01)
      The strong tidal modulation of infragravity (200 to 20 s period) waves observed on the southern California shelf is shown to be the result of nonlinear transfers of energy from these low-frequency long waves to ...