Now showing items 1-5 of 5

  • Reflection and tunneling of ocean waves observed at a submarine canyon 

    Thomson, James M.; Elgar, Steve; Herbers, T. H. C. (American Geophysical Union, 2005-04-07)
    Ocean surface gravity waves with periods between 20 and 200 s were observed to reflect from a steep-walled submarine canyon. Observations of pressure and velocity on each side of the canyon were decomposed into incident waves ...
  • Refraction and reflection of infragravity waves near submarine canyons 

    Thomson, James M.; Elgar, Steve; Herbers, T. H. C.; Raubenheimer, Britt; Guza, R. T. (American Geophysical Union, 2007-10-10)
    The propagation of infragravity waves (ocean surface waves with periods from 20 to 200 s) over complex inner shelf (water depths from about 3 to 50 m) bathymetry is investigated with field observations from the southern ...
  • Resonances in an evolving hole in the swash zone 

    Elgar, Steve; Raubenheimer, Britt; Thomson, James M.; Moulton, Melissa (2011-08-06)
    Water oscillations observed in a 10-m diameter, 2-m deep hole excavated on the foreshore just above the low-tide line on an ocean beach are consistent with theory. When swashes first filled the initially circular hole on ...
  • Tidal modulation of infragravity waves via nonlinear energy losses in the surfzone 

    Thomson, James M.; Elgar, Steve; Raubenheimer, Britt; Herbers, T. H. C.; Guza, R. T. (American Geophysical Union, 2006-03-01)
    The strong tidal modulation of infragravity (200 to 20 s period) waves observed on the southern California shelf is shown to be the result of nonlinear transfers of energy from these low-frequency long waves to ...
  • Wave breaking turbulence at the offshore front of the Columbia River Plume 

    Thomson, James M.; Horner-Devine, Alex R.; Zippel, Seth; Rusch, Curtis; Geyer, W. Rockwell (John Wiley & Sons, 2014-12-19)
    Observations at the Columbia River plume show that wave breaking is an important source of turbulence at the offshore front, which may contribute to plume mixing. The lateral gradient of current associated with the plume ...