Now showing items 1-18 of 18

  • Currents in a small tidal-flat channel 

    Elgar, Steve; Raubenheimer, Britt (2010-06)
    Near-bottom currents observed on a tidal flat are compared with those observed 50 m away inside a shallow (0.25 to 0.40 m deep) channel. For water depths between 0.5 and 2.5 m (when both current meters are submerged), ...
  • Effects of wave rollers and bottom stress on wave setup 

    Apotsos, Alex; Raubenheimer, Britt; Elgar, Steve; Guza, R. T.; Smith, Jerry A. (American Geophysical Union, 2007-02-03)
    Setup, the increase in the mean water level associated with breaking waves, observed between the shoreline and about 6-m water depth on an ocean beach is predicted well by a model that includes the effects of wave rollers ...
  • Fortnightly tides and subtidal motions in a choked inlet 

    MacMahan, Jamie; van de Kreeke, Jacobus; Reniers, Ad; Elgar, Steve; Raubenheimer, Britt; Thornton, Ed B.; Weltmer, Micah; Rynne, Patrick; Brown, Jenna (Elsevier, 2014-04-12)
    Amplitudes of semi-diurnal tidal fluctuations measured at an ocean inlet system decay nearly linearly by 87% between the ocean edge of the offshore ebb-tidal delta and the backbay. A monochromatic, dynamical model for a ...
  • Improving the time resolution of surfzone bathymetry using in situ altimeters 

    Moulton, Melissa; Elgar, Steve; Raubenheimer, Britt (2013-06)
    Surfzone bathymetry often is resolved poorly in time because watercraft surveys cannot be performed when waves are large, and remote sensing techniques have limited vertical accuracy. However, accurate high-frequency ...
  • Microwave radar cross sections and Doppler velocities measured in the surf zone 

    Farquharson, Gordon; Frasier, Stephen J.; Raubenheimer, Britt; Elgar, Steve (American Geophysical Union, 2005-12-23)
    The relationship between microwave imaging radar measurements of fluid velocities in the surf zone and shoaling, breaking, and broken waves is studied with field observations. Normalized radar cross section (NRCS) and ...
  • Modeled alongshore circulation and force balances onshore of a submarine canyon 

    Hansen, Jeff E.; Raubenheimer, Britt; List, Jeffrey H.; Elgar, Steve (John Wiley & Sons, 2015-03-23)
    Alongshore force balances, including the role of nonlinear advection, in the shoaling and surf zones onshore of a submarine canyon are investigated using a numerical modeling system (Delft3D/SWAN). The model is calibrated ...
  • Observations of swash zone velocities : a note on friction coefficients 

    Raubenheimer, Britt; Elgar, Steve; Guza, R. T. (American Geophysical Union, 2004-01-30)
    Vertical flow structure and turbulent dissipation in the swash zone are estimated using cross-shore fluid velocities observed on a low-sloped, fine-grained sandy beach [Raubenheimer, 2002] with two stacks of three current ...
  • Radar remote sensing estimates of waves and wave forcing at a tidal inlet 

    Diaz Mendez, Guillermo M.; Haller, Merrick C.; Raubenheimer, Britt; Elgar, Steve; Honegger, David A. (American Meteorological Society, 2015-04)
    The time and space variability of wave transformation through a tidal inlet is investigated with radar remote sensing. The frequency of wave breaking and the net wave breaking dissipation at high spatial resolution is ...
  • Refraction and reflection of infragravity waves near submarine canyons 

    Thomson, James M.; Elgar, Steve; Herbers, T. H. C.; Raubenheimer, Britt; Guza, R. T. (American Geophysical Union, 2007-10-10)
    The propagation of infragravity waves (ocean surface waves with periods from 20 to 200 s) over complex inner shelf (water depths from about 3 to 50 m) bathymetry is investigated with field observations from the southern ...
  • Resonances in an evolving hole in the swash zone 

    Elgar, Steve; Raubenheimer, Britt; Thomson, James M.; Moulton, Melissa (2011-08-06)
    Water oscillations observed in a 10-m diameter, 2-m deep hole excavated on the foreshore just above the low-tide line on an ocean beach are consistent with theory. When swashes first filled the initially circular hole on ...
  • A surfzone morphological diffusivity estimated from the evolution of excavated holes 

    Moulton, Melissa; Elgar, Steve; Raubenheimer, Britt (John Wiley & Sons, 2014-07-14)
    Downslope gravity-driven sediment transport smooths steep nearshore bathymetric features, such as channels, bars, troughs, cusps, mounds, pits, scarps, and bedforms. Downslope transport appears approximately as a diffusive ...
  • Testing and calibrating parametric wave transformation models on natural beaches 

    Apotsos, Alex; Raubenheimer, Britt; Elgar, Steve; Guza, R. T. (2007-10-04)
    To provide coastal engineers and scientists with a detailed inter-comparison of widely used parametric wave transformation models, several models are tested and calibrated with extensive observations from 6 field experiments ...
  • Tidal modulation of infragravity waves via nonlinear energy losses in the surfzone 

    Thomson, James M.; Elgar, Steve; Raubenheimer, Britt; Herbers, T. H. C.; Guza, R. T. (American Geophysical Union, 2006-03-01)
    The strong tidal modulation of infragravity (200 to 20 s period) waves observed on the southern California shelf is shown to be the result of nonlinear transfers of energy from these low-frequency long waves to ...
  • Vorticity generation by short-crested wave breaking 

    Clark, David B.; Elgar, Steve; Raubenheimer, Britt (American Geophysical Union, 2012-12-21)
    Eddies and vortices associated with breaking waves rapidly disperse pollution, nutrients, and terrestrial material along the coast. Although theory and numerical models suggest that vorticity is generated near the ends of ...
  • Wave dissipation by muddy seafloors 

    Elgar, Steve; Raubenheimer, Britt (American Geophysical Union, 2008-04-12)
    Muddy seafloors cause tremendous dissipation of ocean waves. Here, observations and numerical simulations of waves propagating between 5- and 2-m water depths across the muddy Louisiana continental shelf are used to estimate ...
  • Wave evolution across the Louisiana shelf 

    Engelstad, Anita; Janssen, T. T.; Herbers, T. H. C.; van Vledder, Gerbrant; Elgar, Steve; Raubenheimer, Britt; Trainor, Lincoln; Garcia-Garcia, Ana (2012-10)
    Observations and third-generation wave model hindcasts of ocean surface gravity waves propagating across the Louisiana shelf show that the effects of the mud environment on wave evolution are complex and episodic. Whereas ...
  • Wave-driven along-channel subtidal flows in a well-mixed ocean inlet 

    Wargula, Anna E.; Raubenheimer, Britt; Elgar, Steve (John Wiley & Sons, 2014-05-20)
    Observations of waves, flows, and water levels collected for a month in and near a long, narrow, shallow (∼ 3000 m long, 1000 m wide, and 5 m deep), well-mixed ocean inlet are used to evaluate the subtidal (periods > 30 ...
  • Wave-driven setup and alongshore flows observed onshore of a submarine canyon 

    Apotsos, Alex; Raubenheimer, Britt; Elgar, Steve; Guza, R. T. (American Geophysical Union, 2008-07-19)
    The effect of alongshore variations in the incident wavefield on wave-driven setup and on alongshore flows in the surfzone is investigated using observations collected onshore of a submarine canyon. Wave heights and radiation ...