Now showing items 1-4 of 4

  • Effects of wave rollers and bottom stress on wave setup 

    Apotsos, Alex; Raubenheimer, Britt; Elgar, Steve; Guza, R. T.; Smith, Jerry A. (American Geophysical Union, 2007-02-03)
    Setup, the increase in the mean water level associated with breaking waves, observed between the shoreline and about 6-m water depth on an ocean beach is predicted well by a model that includes the effects of wave rollers ...
  • Setup in the surfzone 

    Apotsos, Alex (Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 2007-09)
    Surfzone wave height transformation and wave-breaking-driven increases in the mean sea level (setup) are examined on alongshore-uniform beaches with alongshore homogeneous and inhomogeneous wave forcing. While previously ...
  • Testing and calibrating parametric wave transformation models on natural beaches 

    Apotsos, Alex; Raubenheimer, Britt; Elgar, Steve; Guza, R. T. (2007-10-04)
    To provide coastal engineers and scientists with a detailed inter-comparison of widely used parametric wave transformation models, several models are tested and calibrated with extensive observations from 6 field experiments ...
  • Wave-driven setup and alongshore flows observed onshore of a submarine canyon 

    Apotsos, Alex; Raubenheimer, Britt; Elgar, Steve; Guza, R. T. (American Geophysical Union, 2008-07-19)
    The effect of alongshore variations in the incident wavefield on wave-driven setup and on alongshore flows in the surfzone is investigated using observations collected onshore of a submarine canyon. Wave heights and radiation ...