Physical linkages between an offshore canyon and surf zone morphologic change
Hansen, Jeff E.
List, Jeffrey H.
Lippmann, Thomas C.
MetadataShow full item record
The causes of surf zone morphologic changes observed along a sandy beach onshore of a submarine canyon were investigated using field observations and a numerical model (Delft3D/SWAN). Numerically simulated morphologic changes using four different sediment transport formulae reproduce the temporal and spatial patterns of net cross-shore integrated (between 0 and 6.5 m water depths) accretion and erosion observed in a ∼300 m alongshore region, a few hundred meters from the canyon head. The observations and simulations indicate that the accretion or erosion results from converging or diverging alongshore currents driven primarily by breaking waves and alongshore pressure gradients. The location of convergence or divergence depends on the direction of the offshore waves that refract over the canyon, suggesting that bathymetric features on the inner shelf can have first-order effects on short-term nearshore morphologic change.
Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2017. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 122 (2017): 3451–3460, doi:10.1002/2016JC012319.
The publisher requires that this item be embargoed until 2017-10-29. Please check back after 2017-10-29.
Showing items related by title, author, creator and subject.
Warner, John C.; Schwab, William C.; List, Jeffrey H.; Safak, Ilgar; Liste, Maria; Baldwin, Wayne E. (Elsevier, 2017-02-17)Hurricane Sandy was one of the most destructive hurricanes in US history, making landfall on the New Jersey coast on October 30, 2012. Storm impacts included several barrier island breaches, massive coastal erosion, and ...
Changes in midgut gland morphology and digestive enzyme activities associated with development in early stages of the American lobster Homarus americanus Biesiot, Patricia Marie (Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 1986-05)The development of the digestive system, specifically in relation to the midgut gland (hepatopancreas). in early life history stages of the American lobster Homarus americanus is examined in the present study by means ...
Morphological and compositional changes in the skeletons of new coral recruits reared in acidified seawater : insights into the biomineralization response to ocean acidification Cohen, Anne L.; McCorkle, Daniel C.; de Putron, Samantha J.; Gaetani, Glenn A.; Rose, Kathryn A. (American Geophysical Union, 2009-07-24)We reared primary polyps (new recruits) of the common Atlantic golf ball coral Favia fragum for 8 days at 25°C in seawater with aragonite saturation states ranging from ambient (Ω = 3.71) to strongly undersaturated (Ω = ...