Similarity relations of wind waves in finite depth
MetadataShow full item record
LocationLake St. Clair
Three formulations for the rear face of a growing wind-sea spectrum in finite depth based on Phillips (1958), Toba (1972) and Donelan et al. (1985) are tested using spectral measurements from Lake St. Clair. Assuming spectral similarity in wave number space relations between the energy, equilibrium parameters and peak wave number are derived. Using a regression analysis, relations are obtained from the data and compared to the theoretical relations. Results indicate that the formulation based on a high-frequency f-4 tail (Toba, 1972 and Donelan et al., 1985) is better than the Phillips f-5 high-frequency tail. Based on the effective fetch formulation, wave propagation directions are calculated. Relations between the spectral parameters, growth-stage variables and fetch are also determined from the data. The relations indicate a weak dependence of the spectral parameters on depth. Various source terms in the energy balance equation for wave growth in finite depth water are estimated for two cases of wave evolution. The relative importance of wind input, bottom dissipation, white-capping dissipation and nonlinear transfer in the evolution of the spectra is analyzed.
Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution August 1988
Showing items related by title, author, creator and subject.
Waldbauer, Jacob R. (Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 2010-02)Biological activity has shaped the surface of the earth in numerous ways, but life’s most pervasive and persistent global impact has been the secular oxidation of the surface environment. Through primary production – the ...
Initial settlement of marine invertebrate larvae : the role of passive sinking in a near-bottom turbulent flow environment Hannan, Cheryl Ann (Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 1984-02)The hypothesis that planktonic larvae of benthic invertebrates sink through the water like passive particles in turbulent flows near the seabed was tested in the field using several groups of geometrically different ...
Helium and lead isotope geochemistry of oceanic volcanic rocks from the East Pacific and South Atlantic Graham, David W. (Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 1987-09)The isotopic evolution of helium and lead in the Earth is coupled by virtue of their common radioactive parents uranium and thorium. The isotopic signatures in oceanic volcanic rocks provide constraints on the temporal ...